Victory Restaurant

Century of Success

As one of Singapore’s oldest murtabak restaurants, Victory Restaurant prides itself in its home-made ingredients and recipes. The staff attributes its longevity to the loyalty of its customers who have been supporting the business for generations.

Behind the glass window, a man picks up a handful of oil and spreads it across the seasoned table. With swift and nimble fingers, he slaps a ball of dough into a paper-thin sheet ready to receive an egg, cheese, and fried meat of choice, cooked with a home-made spice mix that has been in the family for generations. Although beef is the most popular choice, one cannot go wrong with mutton or chicken either. After being thrown on the hot plate, the whole process is repeated to produce a crisp golden-brown pastry layered with a savoury meat and cheese filling; otherwise known as murtabak.

Founded in 1910, Victory Restaurant was one of the first few Indian-Muslim restaurants in Singapore to popularise this unique style of murtabak. With its established reputation, tourists and locals alike come not just to taste the savoury dish, but to see how it is made. Passers-by will often stop by the shop window, intrigued by the theatrical display on show: “Yesterday, people from Mexico, Argentina all came to take pictures, and so I shared with them. They asked where is this from, so I said it’s from India, Indian food.” Mr Subair, the restaurant supervisor, shares the joy he feels being able to share his culture with foreigners, “if they are happy, I’m also happy.”

Victory Restaurant is an example in which the food truly lives up to its name and novelty—as attested to by its large and loyal customer base. They have regulars from Malaysia who have been crossing borders for the past 20 to 30 years just to eat its signature murtabak and briyani. For some families, Victory Restaurant has become a spot that serves multiple generations: “They would say, ‘my father brought me here.’ Now they bring their children here too.” Similarly, the century-old establishment has been passed down from one generation to the next. The current owner, Mr Gazali Edikilakath, is the grandson of the original founder and has plans to hand the business over to his children. It is a result of these intergenerational relationships between customers and businesses that places like Victory Restaurant continue to thrive.

It is often the memories associated with a certain scent or flavour that remain the most powerful. Such was the case for an American tourist who visited the restaurant in 1974 and found his way back 45 years later.¹ Even after all the time that passed, he could not forget the warm service and unique flavours he experienced during his first visit. The heart-warming story of two different cultures uniting over food also speaks for the sense of comfort and familiarity that Victory Restaurant evokes in its patrons. From the murtabak dough to the filling, even the spices used in the briyani has stayed the same for decades. It is not only a matter of family pride, but the obligation to preserve the flavours, sights, and smells that are ingrained in people’s memories. This is also why they have resisted opportunities to modernise the interiors, so that people who come back can say, “oh, it’s still the same,” even after years have passed.

Amidst the restrictions on travel and dining-in during the COVID-19 pandemic, Victory Restaurant continued to bring the familiar flavours of its dishes to customers through online ordering platforms and delivery services. But it was not without trial and error. Mr Subair recalls the long period of uncertainty as the COVID-19 safe management measures kept changing. With the fate of the business resting on every new update and rule, the staff would anxiously watch the news each day hoping for good news. The foreign staff were particularly affected by the pandemic as most could not go back to their home countries to visit their families, while some even struggled to secure housing and meals.

Despite these challenges, Victory Restaurant continued to support the Muslim community through food donations during Ramadan. In 2020, they gave out enough food for 140 people to break fast each day. Their staff would bike around the island, manually delivering packets of food to migrant worker dormitories all the way from Changi to Jurong. They have also been supporting non-governmental organisations such as Pertapis and Muhammadiyah Association, which provide welfare and education to the community through their donations.

While Mr Gazali welcomes changes to Kampong Gelam, he believes that Victory Restaurant has a special place in the area as one of the oldest establishments there. He dedicates his success to his customers, and acknowledges that the future of the restaurant is not in his hands alone. Like each murtabak they make, the future of Victory Restaurant has been passed from the loving hands of Mr Gazali’s family to their faithful customers. Together, they partake in a history that is tied to the flavours of Kampong Gelam.

Interviewed by Ahmad Fakhruddin Bin Mohd Fadzuli and Ahmad Hasif Bin Mohammad Amran on 9 May 2022.