Making and Sharing of Tea

Communities Involved

People across various ethnic communities in Singapore participate in the making and sharing of tea. They prepare, consume and use tea for a variety of reasons ranging from personal consumption to social activities, to religious practices. The knowledge and skills related to the making and sharing of tea may be transmitted both formally between experts and apprentices and informally within families. Tea can easily be found across Singapore in a variety of places – traditional teahouses, hawker centres, coffeeshops¹, restaurants, temples, and in the homes of many.

Associated Social and Cultural Practices

1. Types of Tea commonly found in Singapore

   1. Nanyang Tea

      The concept of Nanyang Tea refers to tea blended with two to three different types of tea leaves imported from Southern China. This concept is said to be historically derived from an inconsistent supply of tea leaves during certain seasons, and as such, teahouses began the practice of blending different tea leaves as a solution to mitigate the shortage of tea leaves required for brewing.  

   2. Herbal Tea

      Herbal tea is another popular version of tea that can be found in Singapore that can be made both at home and in specialised shops such as Koong Woh Tong. Herbal tea such as the 5-Flowered Tea (五花茶 or wu hua cha) and 24-Flavoured Tea (二十四味 or er shi si wei) is made with tea leaves and various Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) herbs and is believed to carry cooling properties ideal for a humid climate. 

   3. Teh

      Teh commonly found in hawker centres and coffeeshops is typically made using a traditional method in which a large metal cylinder filled with hot water and a sock in which tea leaves or teabags are mixed together. Teh comes in various forms and is customisable based on the customer’s order. Popular variations include: Teh (hot tea with condensed milk and sugar), Teh C (hot tea with evaporated milk and sugar), Teh O (hot tea without milk and with sugar), Teh O Kosong (hot tea without milk or sugar), Teh Siew Dai (hot tea with condensed milk and less sugar), Teh Peng (iced tea with condensed milk), Teh Ice Limau (iced lemon tea).

   4. Teh Tarik

      Teh Tarik (pulled tea) was introduced to the region by Indian immigrants, and typically contains tea mixed with evaporated and condensed milk. The making of teh tarik requires a certain skill to pull the tea into the air to create a smooth and frothy texture. Teh Tarik is a very popular type of tea in Singapore, and is enjoyed by many Singaporeans, regardless of ethnic backgrounds. As such it can easily be found in hawker centres and coffeeshops across the country.

   5. Teh Halia

      Teh halia is akin to teh tarik, with the only difference being the addition of ginger to give a sharper taste to the beverage.

   6. Masala Tea

      Masala Tea or masala chai (spice tea) has its roots in the Indian subcontinent and is typically mixed with different spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and mixed with milk. In Singapore, masala tea can be found at Indian restaurants and in homes – with each household having their own take to the blending of spices.

       

2. Pairing Tea with Food

   1. Bak Kut Teh

      Bak Kut Teh (meat bone tea) is a dish popular amongst the Hokkien and Teochew communities consisting of meat cooked in herbal soup. Many local restaurants use Nanyang Tea produced by local tea merchants such as Pek Sin Choon in the pairing of the dish.

   2. Thunder Tea Rice

      Thunder tea rice, believed to have been started by the Hakka community, consists of at least 10 chopped vegetables prepared in a tea base. It typically consists of tea leaves, peanuts, sesame seeds, white pepper, mint leaves, basil, etc. grinded into fine powder and brewed.

       

3. Use in Rituals

   1. Chinese Weddings

      Tea is used in traditional Chinese Weddings (roots.gov.sg) during the tea ceremony in Singapore. The first part of the tea ceremony takes place at the groom’s home. If deities and ancestors are worshipped at home, the couple will pray at the family altar before serving tea to the elders of the family as a mark or respect and gratitude. The couple will then leave for the bride’s house to hold a separate tea ceremony for the bride’s family. Thereafter, the couple will offer tea to each other in a ritual to symbolise mutual trust and goodwill. Tea is also typically served throughout the wedding banquet if it takes place at a Chinese restaurant.

   2. Chinese Temple Practices

      The practice of offering tea, water, and wine plays a significant role in Taoist rituals. The order of offerings typically starts with tea placed at the front left of the altar, and in the typical quantities of either 3, 6, or 9.

   3. Qingming Festival

      Qingming Festival falls between the 4^th and 6^th of April each year. During Qingming Festival, Chinese people visit cemeteries and columbaria to honour deceased family members at their graves or urns, as an expression of filial piety. Depending on the practices of different dialect groups, family members lay out offerings ranging from food, flowers, huat kueh (prosperity cake) and tea. Similar to practices in temples, tea is offered as a show of respect. After the worship rituals are complete, it is common for family members to clean up the offerings and pour out the tea in front of their ancestors' graves (or at an appropriate space within the columbaria). Despite the changes in burial practices, the act of offering and thereafter pouring tea at the columbaria remains an important tradition.

   4. Zhong Yuan Jie (Hungry Ghost Festival)

      The Hungry Ghost Festival, also known as Zhong Yuan Jie, occurs annually on the 14^th day of the seventh lunar month and is dedicated to remembering and honouring ancestors. The custom of offering tea during this festival is similar to that of Qingming Festival, albeit with some differences. Unlike Qingming Festival where rituals are carried out at cemeteries or columbaria, for Zhong Yuan Jie, ancestral worship is carried out in residential areas where family members often include tea leaves as one of the offerings to their ancestors.

   5. Mid-Autumn Festival

      The Mid-Autumn Festival falls annually on the 15^th day of the eighth lunar month. The Mid-Autumn Festival symbolises reunion and one of the highlights of this festival is the consumption of mooncakes, a must-have delicacy during this season. Tea is often paired with mooncakes during this festival, as it is believed to aid in digestion. People enjoy the pleasure of family reunions while savouring mooncakes and sipping tea, creating a moment of joy and unity.

    

4. Social Practices

1. Tea Art

   Tea Art refers to the artistic conception of the entire tea drinking process which includes the appreciation of tea brewing and tasting techniques, as well as the drinking environment. The process reflects the unity of form and spirit, and is a social practice through which the basic understanding of tea leaves, water, brewing techniques, and etiquette are experienced and understood by the drinker. 

2. Hawker Culture

Hawker Culture (roots.gov.sg) was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021. Hawker centres is the hub of hawker culture and a focal point for social interaction between friends and family across the different communities. Tea – in its various styles and forms – can be readily found in hawker centres across Singapore. 

Experience of Practitioners

Mr Kenry Peh – Pek Sin Choon Tea Merchants

At Pek Sin Choon Tea Merchants located at 36 Mosque Street in Chinatown, helmed by fourth generation owner Mr Kenry Peh, the traditional way of blending tea leaves in a large flat bamboo basket is still the method in use - a technique which has been passed down through generations. The Tea Blending Master (Master) meticulously selects tea leaves typically sourced from southern and northern Fujian, and thereafter places them layer by layer in a gradual process before gently massaging the tea leaves to produce a unique fragrance and texture. Following that, the Master mixes the layers gently to create a blend before roasting the tea leaves. Over time, the Master’s experience and knowledge of flavours enables him to create just the right blend in the mixing process. While Pek Sin Choon Tea Merchants is a wholesaler, Mr Peh also dedicates time to fostering understanding and appreciation of tea culture through talks, workshops, and creations where he continually searches for innovative ways to share knowledge and interest of the making and sharing of tea to enthusiasts and the general public. Some of Mr Peh's notable innovations to appeal to the younger generation and the wider community include the introduction of cold brew and carbonated teas, and the use of Nanyang tea as the base for Kombucha cultivation.

Mr Mohammad Asgar – Bhai Sarbat

Mr Mohammad Asgar has helmed Bhai Sarbat at 21 Baghdad Street in Kampong Gelam since 2018 – having apprenticed under his uncles Mr Kabiruddin and Mr Zamir Ahmad who co-founded the business in the 1950s. In the earlier years, the shop did not have a signboard or a name, and as it gained popularity over the years, customers would refer to the shop as the ‘Bhai Sarbat Stall.’ ‘Bhai’ meaning ‘brother’ in Hindi/Urdu, was a term of endearment that regulars would use to address Mr Kabiruddin and Mr Zamir Ahmad. This inspired Mr Asgar to claim ‘Bhai Sarbat’ as the shop’s official name when he became the owner. To cater to evolving tastes and demands, Mr Asgar gradually expanded his menu from 12 to over 120 drinks (which include multiple variations of teh as well as other beverages), and has since roped in his son Zaki as a next-generation tea master. Today, a steady flow of new as well as regular customers continue to patronise his shop.¹

Mr Andy Yeo - Poh Chung Tian Chor Sian Tong Temple

Mr Andy Yeo, ex-Secretary General of Poh Chung Tian Chor Sian Tong Temple at 201 Toa Payoh Lorong 6 cites that both tea and wine are central parts of worship rituals in the temple due to specific qualities associated with certain aspects of the deities. While wine is often used for invigoration and activation, aligning with deities that are warriors, tea, on the other hand, is offered to animal deities such as the tiger and dragon, and to balance the ying energy evoked by wine. To ensure the transmission rituals associated with the offering of tea to future generations, Mr Yeo shares this knowledge with the younger generation by creating animations and physical documentation of how offerings are placed on the altar. He stressed on the importance of capturing attention and providing explanations and context for better understanding of offerings such as tea and its place within Taoist rituals. By making these practices more accessible and appealing to younger members of the community, Mr Yeo’s hope is to safeguard and continue the practice of using tea in rituals for years to come.

¹Street Corner Heritage Galleries: Kampong Gelam (roots.gov.sg) / Bhai Sarbat (roots.gov.sg)

Present Status

The making and sharing of tea remain a prevalent and visible part of Singapore’s food heritage and social culture. To encourage the younger generation to appreciate this, practitioners have also creatively found ways for public education, such as through workshops and talks, and different forms of media representation. From hawker centres and coffeeshops that serve as social melting pots where various types of tea can be found, to specialised tea houses, to the use of tea in various religious and cultural ceremonies, tea culture looks set to remain an integral part of Singapore’s way of life.

References

Reference No.: ICH-103

Date of Inclusion: March 2024 

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