Indonesian couturier Didi Budiardjo pays homage to style icon Madame Wellington Koo (1889–1992) by imagining what she would wear in the 21st century given her Peranakan lineage. He explores the continuity of fashion heritage with a kebaya trimmed with English and French lace that recalls the technique, silhouette, and colour of a prevalent 1920s kebaya style in Java, Singapore, and Malaya. Using a 1930s finely hand drawn Pekalongan fabric, he challenges the traditional straight sarong silhouette by creating an A-line skirt, with the rectangular front panel (kepala) arranged at the back. This sarong kebaya was part of an exhibition in Jakarta titled “Tiga Negeri” which reflects on Peranakan culture.An international socialite, daughter of prominent tycoon Oei Tiong Ham, and briefly the First Lady of the Republic of China (late 1926–1927), Madame Koo was featured several times in Vogue magazine and is remembered for her adaptations of Chinese dress. Didi Budiardjo is one of Indonesia’s most respected designers today, known for elegant, modern evening gowns and kebaya, and a deep respect for Indonesia’s strong textile heritage. He launched his practice in 1989 and studied at Atelier Fleuri Delaporte in Paris.
