The kebaya is an open tunic with long sleeves, a collarless neck and front opening. It is a hip-length garment and is gently shaped to flatter the figure. This white kebaya is made from voile and is decorated with embroidery, hence the name kebaya sulam. It is decorated with stylised embroidered floral motifs separated by chicken wire mesh cutwork embroidery on the neckline, front lapels, bottom of the sleeves and the lapik, which refers to the triangular panels covering the wearer’s lap. The rest of the piece is printed with floral designs. The use of embroidery on the kebaya allowed Nyonyas to have greater leeway to customise their own individual piece, so that the chances of them wearing an identical piece with someone else were greatly reduced. Being of a translucent material, this garment would have been worn with an inner, possibly long-sleeved undershirt.
