A mustard cheongsam with black floral motifs

This is an ankle-length cheongsam with black floral motifs all over and a high collar lined with a panel of lace on the inside. The collar and front flap are held together by a series of intricate knot and loop fasteners, called ‘huaniu’. This dress has a burnt-out pattern effect on velvet which was a style typical of the 1930s and was custom made at Yue Tai Cheong, a tailor shop in early 20th century Singapore.The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.