A blue cheongsam with floral motifs

This is a blue brocade cheongsam with white floral motifs all over and a high collar lined with a panel of lace on the inside. This ankle-length piece has a more fitted waistline compared to cheongsams of the 1920s and was custom made at Yue Tai Cheong, a tailor shop in early 20th century Singapore. The cheongsam is a ubiquitous Chinese dress that first gained popularity in the early 20th century and was an essential part of a typical woman’s wardrobe. It has its origins in the originally long robes worn by Manchu women of the Qing Dynasty. The cheongsam is usually bespoked to ensure a fitted silhouette and its other distinctive features include a high collar, side slits at the hem and a decorative knot and loop fastener for the collar or shoulder flap, called the ‘hua niu’.